1. Optical effect

The puncher, transforms the first idea into an embroidery design and produces the data carrier to run the embroidery machine and is very much responsible for good stitch formation. The criteria is to choose the correct stitch density to produce the best coverage on the fabric. If the density is too low the fabric might gleam through the embroidered area. If stitches are built too dense, this could cause multiple thread breaks. The stitch lengths also need to be considered, because short, small stitches (< 1mm) might cause thread breaks or looping, whereas extreme long stitches ( > 1 cm) could be damaged, when the embroidery work gets washed or worn.

Basically it also must be decided whether a shiny embroidery design (Rayon or Polyester machine embroidery thread) or a dull embroidery design (Cotton or Polyester sewing thread) is desired. In the matter of sheen more and more 100% Polyester tri-lobal threads gain acceptance besides traditional Rayon / Viscose embroidery threads, and this not least because of its obviously better washing and care resistance. Today our new and innovative product ISALON can replace Rayon / Viscose, because of its silky sheen and extremely soft feel. Together with our all-purpose and high strength ISACORD brand we are able to offer a complete and up-to-date assortment, which perfectly supports you in producing any type of embroidery work.

In regard to ticket numbers a No.40 (originally a cotton count) is standard within the embroidery thread count and equals a ticket No.120 in sewing thread sizes. A thread slightly thicker will mean a No.30 for embroidery, this is a ticket no. 75 / 80 in sewing thread sizes.

For exact and consistent accuracy in colour, from the original design to the manufactured pieces, the operator always should make sure that he runs one same dye-lot of thread ( perceivable by dye-lot number on the label) within one production batch, especially when spools need to be changed before the actual design is completed. When proceeding in such a way, then those small colour deviations, which technically can’t be eliminated within batch production, but strictly kept within limited tolerances, should not cause major problems.

The single design should be placed and embroidered evenly without wrinkles onto a piece of fabric or a single garment. This means that before starting the embroidery process the pre-cut material or garment needs to be well clamped to the border frame or to a single hoop. Also the thread tension must be set correctly. The under-thread should not be seen at all on the front side. When controlling the reverse side thread draw–in should show a well-balanced pattern. The embroidery itself should appear on the fabric slightly raised. For this, usually a fleece backing is used, which prevents the embroidery from sinking into the fabric material. When embroidery is done on terry fabrics or velvet, it is recommended to use a warm/hot water-soluble foil. This keeps the thread from disappearing between the loops. In this context also shrinkage rate in boiling water should be considered, especially when doing large areas. With a rate of only 0.5% for ISALON / ISACORD and < 2% for Cotton thread, our products will not cause any problems in this respect.

When embroidering on leather material a special embroidery needle should be used, one that usually has an enlarged needle eye (for example: System DBxK5). Thus, a smooth thread run through the needle eye is guaranteed, even when using needles of low cross-section (e.g. Nm 70 or Nm 75). This needle maintains the advantage of penetrating the material by only small stitch holes. Basically such needle types are recommended for all embroideries. Thick needles especially in combination with high stitch-density might more or less perforate leather, synthetic materials or low-weight fabrics.

The kind of embroidery thread, which will be used, mainly depends on style and type of the clothing or garment itself, which is to be embroidered.

An important factor is that the colour fastness of the thread should be controlled. A first judgment can be received by looking at the DIN/ISO measurements in respect to the characteristics listed below :

colour fastness to artificial daylight (scale 1-8),
colour fastness to perspiration (1-5),
colour fastness to washing at 95°C (1-5),
colour fastness to organic solvents (1-5),
heavy colour fastness to water (1-5),
colour fastness to dry rubbing (1-5) and
colour fastness to bleaching with hypochlorite (1-5).

These scales are generally understood as: The higher the number in (), the better the colour fastness. On our product test reports and data sheets you will not find just average values, but guaranteed minimum rates of colour fastness. This means, the indicated mark is achieved by each colour, although many of them maintain a higher ranking.

It is also worthy of attention that Rayon / Viscose threads are not normally colourfast to chlorine. This is another reason, why Polyester thread is highly recommended for jeans wear (stone washed process etc.), kitchen towels and chef jackets (stain treatment), and work wear. Also when decorating high durable products like shoes, ski clothing, outdoor jackets, seat covers etc. a superior Polyester make should be used, because of its inherent fastness to abrasion. A rayon thread shows greater abrasion, especially under wet conditions; when the fibre swells raising it away from the embroidered garment. That is why the drying of embroidered garments in a dryer is not advisable (see our washing & care instructions).

In general, thread makes should be chosen, which are manufactured of high quality raw materials, because only they ensure a long-term consistent performance. With an ISO 9001 certified Quality Management system we in addition guarantee a continuously high quality standard on product and service.

The kind of thread used should not contain any environmentally damaging or harmful to health components. It could be still a problem with products imported from Asian countries. Our products clearly correspond with Oekotex Standard 100 and 115 (accepted for baby clothing).

In this respect our dyeing facilities in Augsburg is one of the most modern ones in Europe, have been specially built in accordance to the latest and up-dated ecological standards. 

Further Informations:
Tel. 0049 / 71 43 / 277 219
Fax 0049 / 71 43 / 277 827
E-Mail: msg@amann.com