Embroidery thread sizes and numbering

Embroidery thread size describes the fineness or thickness of a thread used for machine embroidery. Embroidery threads are commonly identified by ticket numbers, such as 40, 60 or 75. In this traditional numbering system, higher numbers generally indicate finer threads.

Ticket numbers are practical commercial designations and should not be confused with the actual linear density expressed in Tex or other textile numbering systems.

Embroidery threads are traditionally classified using a numbering system derived from the English cotton count (NeB), historically based on two-ply yarn constructions.

The system is still widely used because it allows embroiderers to identify familiar thread sizes and select suitable threads for established embroidery designs.

For example:

• Ticket 40: Standard thread size for a wide range of machine embroidery applications.
• Ticket 60: Finer thread suitable for detailed embroidery and smaller lettering.
• Ticket 75: Very fine thread for intricate designs and micro lettering.
• Ticket 30: Thicker thread used for more pronounced decorative effects.

Unlike Tex, embroidery ticket numbers do not directly express the weight of a specified thread length. Their relationship to actual linear density can also vary between thread products.

For a detailed explanation of the underlying systems, see Ticket numbers in the AMANN Knowledge Hub.

Different thread sizes are used to achieve specific embroidery effects. The following overview provides general guidance.

Other ticket sizes, including 20, 25 and 35, are also used for particular thread qualities and applications.

These classifications are general guidelines. The actual suitability depends on the thread construction, material being embroidered, needle and embroidery design.

Finer embroidery threads are particularly useful when creating small lettering, narrow outlines and intricate design elements.

Because they occupy less space within the embroidery, they can help prevent excessive thread build-up and improve the definition of small details.

However, finer threads do not automatically produce better results. The embroidery design must be adapted to the selected thread size.

Important considerations include:

• Stitch density and spacing
• Minimum stitch length
• Needle size
• Material stability
• Thread coverage and colour contrast

For very fine embroidery, digitising techniques may need to be adjusted to ensure that individual details remain visible and stitches are formed reliably.

More detailed guidance is available in the AMANN expert article How to create small embroidery designs.

Ticket 40 is the established standard size for many conventional machine embroidery applications.

It provides a balance between stitch coverage, appearance and processing reliability and is suitable for a broad range of designs, including logos, lettering and decorative motifs.

The widespread use of ticket 40 also means that many embroidery designs and machine settings are developed around this thread size.

Thicker embroidery threads create a more pronounced surface appearance and can be used to produce bold decorative details or a hand-stitched effect.

However, increasing the thread thickness also increases the space required during stitch formation.

Coarse threads may require:

• Larger needles with sufficient space in the needle eye and groove
• Adjusted stitch density and stitch length
• Reduced machine speed
• Modified machine settings or, for particularly thick threads, technical adjustments to the machine

The material must also be suitable for the larger needle penetration and the more pronounced embroidery structure.

The embroidery thread must pass freely through the needle eye and along the needle groove without excessive friction.

A needle that is too small can restrict the thread and increase the risk of thread damage or breakage. A needle that is unnecessarily large can leave visible penetration holes or damage sensitive materials.

The following values provide general starting points for industrial embroidery applications.

These are indicative ranges rather than universal settings. The appropriate needle system, size and point must always be selected according to the thread, material and embroidery machine.

Thread size and stitch density must be considered together.

When switching from a standard embroidery thread to a finer or thicker thread, the original embroidery design may no longer produce the intended appearance.

Finer threads generally occupy less space and may require adjustments to stitch spacing to achieve sufficient coverage.

Thicker threads occupy more space and can cause excessive thread build-up if the original stitch density is retained.

Simply replacing the thread without adapting the embroidery parameters can result in irregular stitch coverage, distortion or processing problems.

For consistent results, the stitch density should be reviewed whenever the thread size is changed significantly.

The relationship between thread size and stitch spacing is not identical for every embroidery thread. In addition to the embroidery ticket, the specific thread product must be considered when digitising an embroidery design.

The following table provides stitch distance settings and minimum needle sizes for individual AMANN embroidery threads. It also shows the corresponding ticket numbers, embroidery ticket numbers and Tex values to support thread selection and digitising.

*Only for decorative stitching!
Minimum stitch length: *1: 2,5 mm / *2: 1,5 mm

The values provide a technical reference for digitising and adapting embroidery designs to different thread sizes. Actual settings should always be checked under the intended embroidery conditions, taking into account the material, stabiliser, embroidery design and machine setup.

The appropriate embroidery thread size depends on the intended embroidery effect and the technical requirements of the application.

The following factors should be considered:

• Design detail: Small lettering and intricate motifs generally benefit from finer threads.
• Embroidery appearance: Thicker threads produce a more pronounced, textured surface.
• Material properties: Fine or delicate materials may require smaller needles and finer threads.
• Machine compatibility: Needle size and machine settings must be suitable for the selected thread.
• Processing reliability: Thread thickness, stitch density and machine speed must be coordinated.

Before production, the selected combination should be tested under conditions representative of the intended application.

For detailed technical explanations and thread size comparisons, see:

• Ticket numbers – AMANN Knowledge Hub
• Textile numbering systems
• Embroidery ticket converter
• Thread and needle size converters

Technical terms

• Embroidery thread size
• Machine embroidery thread size
• Embroidery thread numbering
• Embroidery ticket number
• Embroidery thread ticket
• Industrial embroidery thread numbering
• Embroidery thread fineness
• Embroidery yarn count
• Embroidery thread linear density
• Thread size classification
• Fine embroidery thread
• Coarse embroidery thread
• Ultra-fine embroidery thread
• Embroidery thread thickness
• Embroidery ticket 40
• Embroidery ticket 60
• Embroidery ticket 75
• Tex numbering
• NeB numbering
• Embroidery thread size selection

Common descriptions

• What does embroidery thread size 40 mean?
• What is the difference between embroidery thread 40 and 60?
• Is embroidery thread 60 finer than 40?
• Which embroidery thread size is best for small lettering?
• What thread size should I use for machine embroidery?
• Which thread is suitable for detailed embroidery?
• What is the finest embroidery thread?
• Which embroidery thread size is best for logos?
• What thread size is used for decorative embroidery?
• How thick is embroidery thread 40?
• What is embroidery thread weight?
• How do I convert embroidery thread numbers?
• Which needle size should I use for embroidery thread 40?
• Does embroidery thread size affect stitch density?
• Can I use thicker threads in an embroidery machine?
• Why does embroidery thread size affect the finished design?

Alternative terminology

Different markets and applications may use slightly different terminology.

• Embroidery thread weight
• Machine embroidery thread weight
• Embroidery thread count
• Embroidery yarn number
• Thread ticket number
• Embroidery thread gauge
• Thread fineness
• Thread thickness
• Embroidery thread designation
• Embroidery size number
• Embroidery yarn fineness
• Fine embroidery yarn
• Heavy embroidery thread
• Embroidery thread specification