Preventing seam puckering

Understand the causes. Identify the type. Find the right solution.

Intro

Seam puckering is one of the most common processing problems in the sewing industry. Immediately during or shortly after processing, unwanted waves – known as puckering – appear along the seam. These can only be removed temporarily by ironing or pressing and reappear after the next care treatment at the latest.
A basic distinction is made between the following three types of puckering:

  • Transport puckering
  • Tension puckering
  • Displacement puckering

Depending on the structure of the fabric, one or more types of puckering may occur simultaneously. Other causes of puckering can include design features or poor processing parameters.

Smooth fabrics tend to pucker due to transport, dense fabrics tend to pucker due to displacement, and particularly fine, lightweight fabrics often show tension puckering along the seams. Seam puckering is also increased by creative combinations, such as coarse decorative seams on thin materials.

To prevent seam puckering or improve seam appearance, the puckering phenomenon must first be analysed to determine the cause. Depending on the type of puckering, different approaches are needed to improve the situation.

Short definition

Seam puckering is the unwanted wrinkling, waviness or distortion of fabric along a sewn seam. It can result from uneven feeding, excessive thread tension, yarn displacement or differential shrinkage. Identifying the correct type of seam puckering is the first step towards selecting the appropriate corrective action.

Quick facts

PropertyValue
CategorySeam quality
TypeSewing defect
Main causesFeed, tension, displacement, shrinkage
Can be preventedYes
Typical occurrenceDuring or after sewing
IndustriesApparel, footwear, automotive, workwear, technical textiles

Also known as

Technical terms
 
  • Seam puckering 
  • Seam pucker 
  • Puckered seam 
  • Seam wrinkling 
  • Seam distortion
Common descriptions
 

People often describe the problem as:

  • My seam puckers. 
  • My seam is wavy. 
  • My seam is wrinkled. 
  • My seam has ripples. 
  • My seam doesn't lie flat. 
  • The fabric wrinkles along the seam. 
  • The seam gathers after sewing. 
  • The material bunches up at the seam. 
  • The seam looks uneven. 
  • The seam is distorted. 
  • The seam contracts after sewing. 

     
Alternative spelling

 

  • Seam puckering 
  • Seam-puckering

International terminology

LanguageCommon terminology
EnglishSeam puckering, Seam pucker, Puckered seam, Seam wrinkling, Wavy seam, Rippled seam, Seam distortion
GermanNahtkräuseln, Nahtkräuselung, Wellenbildung an der Naht
FrenchFronces de couture, Couture plissée
ItalianArricciatura della cucitura
SpanishFruncido de costura, Arrugas en la costura
Chinese缝缝起皱, 接缝起皱
VietnameseNhăn đường may, Nhăn đường chỉ

FAQ